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Estimated Cost / Time Requirements
Cost Range: Scrapyard Prices: £1 > £5 Ford Prices: £15 > £20
Time Range: Pre Wired: --- Manual Wiring: 30 to 40 Minutes per door

Installing a One-Touch-Down Passenger Side Window

This was a feature never added to MK'1 spec-cars but can be easily added. Time taken depends on how you connect your wires and your competency with vehicle electric's. You can also do this modification to the rear door windows.

It has been asked on a number of occasions if you can wire the relay to give one-touch-up. Whilst possible the relay was not intended for this and without the safety devices could cause injury that you would be liable for up to the end of the car's life - as such no instructions are given (in this how-to or via email) about creating one touch up windows.

You need:      

  • The One-Touch-Down relay
    • FINIS - 92GG-14A267-AB - 17.48
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • An Allen key or a strong bit of metal bent at a right angle.
  • 4 Meters of wire
  • Wire cutters
  • Soldering or crimping facilities
  • Insulating tape

You may need::

  • Cable harness (goes on the bottom of the relay but is only available as part of a loom)
  • Cable ties

Alternatively:

  • No alternatives detailed.

I got both bits from a scrapped Mondeo for 3 so worth looking there first. I would suggest disconnecting the battery for this project - but its your call.

This for reference is what the module looks like with the harness on the end. Its found bolted onto the drivers door (behind the foam surround) next to the hinges. All Mk1 Mondeo's came with the drivers door one-touch so finding one shouldn't be a problem. To start you need to remove the door-card as described in this How-To: Door Card Removal

With the card off you need to remove the speaker and then the insulation foam. Then you can identify the wires feeding the door switch as its all done from here. A quick note here to remind you that this wiring needs to fit back between the card and the insulation so its important not to make messy connections which are bulky. The wires you will need to cut and splice are the solid black (Ground) the heavy Violet with yellow streak cable (12v Feed) and the heavy Yellow with Violet (Down Motor control) cable. Now if you are looking at the Haynes manual electrical diagrams they show the relay power control going to the illumination feed but this is not the case!!! Wiring it this way will mean that firstly your one-touch will only work with the lights on and secondly you run the risk of a overheating the cable as its not designed for this amount of current!!

With the wiring identified you need to splice your new wires onto the existing ones from the relay's cradle. Using cables of a similar width as the originals crimp or solder onto the original 4 wires. Now whilst I didn't do this it will help you to use different coloured cable so you can identify it easier at the other end! Leave about a meter and a bit of cable for each one as they need to travel up to the switch.

Next you need to mount the relay into the long oval pocket in the door. Pass it in through the speaker aperture making sure the wires are on the inside of the door (IE, between the inner and outer metal sheets) With it mounted cable-tie or tape your wires so they run along with the existing loom up to where the switch would be. You can now cut the excess cable off but remember to leave some spare for mistakes and general slack.

Turn the switch connector on its side (So the window-up arrow is on the left) and look at the back where the wires go into the socket - mentally label the pins like so:

Right this is where you need to start cutting wires. First up is the easy one, cut the solid black (ground) wire that runs to pin 5. Now reconnect it in a Y junction with the original two pieces and the black wire from the relay assembly. I suggest crimping the connections as it offers a quick and easy way of doing so, but use small crimp connectors!

Now on pin 7 you will find a heavy Violet cable with a white/yellow streak. Cut this one and again reconnect it in a Y junction together with the Violet cable with the Orange streak from the relay assembly. This is the Ignition Fed 12V Constant supply, and you can check this with a volt meter against pin 5 (Ground)

Now cut the yellow cable with the violet streak in it (Pin 4), this is the down feed to the motor. You will now have two ends to this cable, which I'll call the switch end and the loom end for clarification. You need to connect up the Yellow/Violet cable from the relay assembly to the Loom end. The Yellow/Green cable from the relay needs to be connected to the switch end.

If you use the heavy yellow/violet from pin 6 instead of pin 4 then the one-touch will only work from the drivers switch and not from the passengers side.... hey you might want to wire it that way! Many thanks to SIPanther from the MEG for pointing this out!

 

This is how it should end up looking, notice the yellow/violet cable from the switch is no longer connected strait through. So to summarise:

  • Relays black cable to switches black cable

  • Relays violet with orange streak cable to switches violet with yellow streak cable

  • Relays yellow with green streak cable to switch end of yellow with violet streak cable

  • Relays yellow with violet streak cable to loom end of yellow with violet streak cable

Remember to use insulting tapes on all the joints to avoid shorts. Its also important to remember that some of these cables carry around 10amps so connections need to be secure and capable of carrying this current.

It should take you around 40 minutes to complete this job but take your time ensuring you get the correct cables. When you'll end up with is a one-touch down effect (controllable from both passengers and drivers switch) on the passengers window. Its also possible to do this mod to the rear windows should you wish.

 

Copyright Mirez - 22-Aug-2002 - All Rights Reserved.

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