Estimated
Cost / Time Requirements
|
Cost
Range: |
Scrapyard
Prices: £1 > £5 |
Ford
Prices: £15 > £20 |
Time
Range: |
Pre
Wired: --- |
Manual
Wiring: 30 to 40 Minutes per door |
Installing
a One-Touch-Down Passenger Side Window
This
was a feature never added to MK'1 spec-cars but can be easily added.
Time taken depends on how you connect your wires and your competency
with vehicle electric's. You can also do this modification to the
rear door windows.
It
has been asked on a number of occasions if you can wire the relay
to give one-touch-up. Whilst possible the relay was not intended
for this and without the safety devices could cause injury that
you would be liable for up to the end of the car's life - as such
no instructions are given (in this how-to or via email) about creating
one touch up windows.
You
need:
- The
One-Touch-Down relay
- FINIS
- 92GG-14A267-AB - £17.48
- Phillips
screwdriver
- Flat
blade screwdriver
- An
Allen key or a strong bit of metal bent at a right angle.
- 4
Meters of wire
- Wire
cutters
- Soldering
or crimping facilities
- Insulating
tape
You
may need::
- Cable
harness (goes on the bottom of the relay but is only available
as part of a loom)
- Cable
ties
Alternatively:
- No
alternatives detailed.
I
got both bits from a scrapped Mondeo for £3 so worth looking there
first. I would suggest disconnecting the battery for this project
- but its your call.

This
for reference is what the module looks like with the harness on
the end. Its found bolted onto the drivers door (behind the foam
surround) next to the hinges. All Mk1 Mondeo's came with the drivers
door one-touch so finding one shouldn't be a problem. To start you
need to remove the door-card as described in this How-To: Door
Card Removal
With
the card off you need to remove the speaker and then the insulation
foam. Then you can identify the wires feeding the door switch as
its all done from here. A quick note here to remind you that this
wiring needs to fit back between the card and the insulation so
its important not to make messy connections which are bulky. The
wires you will need to cut and splice are the solid black (Ground)
the heavy Violet with yellow streak cable (12v Feed) and the heavy
Yellow with Violet (Down Motor control) cable. Now if you are looking
at the Haynes manual electrical diagrams they show the relay power
control going to the illumination feed but this is not the case!!!
Wiring it this way will mean that firstly your one-touch will only
work with the lights on and secondly you run the risk of a overheating
the cable as its not designed for this amount of current!!

With
the wiring identified you need to splice your new wires onto the
existing ones from the relay's cradle. Using cables of a similar
width as the originals crimp or solder onto the original 4 wires.
Now whilst I didn't do this it will help you to use different coloured
cable so you can identify it easier at the other end! Leave about
a meter and a bit of cable for each one as they need to travel up
to the switch.
 
Next
you need to mount the relay into the long oval pocket in the door.
Pass it in through the speaker aperture making sure the wires are
on the inside of the door (IE, between the inner and outer metal
sheets) With it mounted cable-tie or tape your wires so they run
along with the existing loom up to where the switch would be. You
can now cut the excess cable off but remember to leave some spare
for mistakes and general slack.
Turn
the switch connector on its side (So the window-up arrow is on the
left) and look at the back where the wires go into the socket -
mentally label the pins like so:

Right
this is where you need to start cutting wires. First up is the easy
one, cut the solid black (ground) wire that runs to pin 5. Now reconnect
it in a Y junction with the original two pieces and the black wire
from the relay assembly. I suggest crimping the connections as it
offers a quick and easy way of doing so, but use small crimp connectors!
Now
on pin 7 you will find a heavy Violet cable with a white/yellow
streak. Cut this one and again reconnect it in a Y junction together
with the Violet cable with the Orange streak from the relay assembly.
This is the Ignition Fed 12V Constant supply, and you can check
this with a volt meter against pin 5 (Ground)
Now
cut the yellow cable with the violet streak in it (Pin 4), this
is the down feed to the motor. You will now have two ends to this
cable, which I'll call the switch end and the loom end for clarification.
You need to connect up the Yellow/Violet cable from the relay assembly
to the Loom end. The Yellow/Green cable from the relay needs to
be connected to the switch end.
If
you use the heavy yellow/violet from pin 6 instead of pin 4 then
the one-touch will only work from the drivers switch and not from
the passengers side.... hey you might want to wire it that way!
Many thanks to SIPanther from the MEG for pointing this out!

This
is how it should end up looking, notice the yellow/violet cable
from the switch is no longer connected strait through. So to summarise:
-
Relays
black cable to switches black cable
-
Relays
violet with orange streak cable to switches violet with yellow
streak cable
-
Relays
yellow with green streak cable to switch end of yellow with
violet streak cable
-
Relays
yellow with violet streak cable to loom end of yellow with violet
streak cable
Remember
to use insulting tapes on all the joints to avoid shorts. Its also
important to remember that some of these cables carry around 10amps
so connections need to be secure and capable of carrying this current.
It
should take you around 40 minutes to complete this job but take
your time ensuring you get the correct cables. When you'll end up
with is a one-touch down effect (controllable from both passengers
and drivers switch) on the passengers window. Its also possible
to do this mod to the rear windows should you wish.
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