Cost / Time Requirements
Prices: £5 > £20
Prices: £40 > £50
Wired: 5 Minutes Per Door
Wiring: 1 to 3 Hours
Interior Door Handle Lights
was another standard feature on the higher spec-cars but can be
easily added. Time taken depends on what wiring loom your car came
with, it may be as simple as just pushing in the bulbs or you may
have to splice the supply from the electric window illumination
supply. If you have to splice the wires then look at about 2 hours
Bulbs (Or 2 if you aren't doing the rear's)
- 85GG-13466-BA - £2.31
Allen key or a strong bit of metal bent at a right angle.
may need: (Depending on the wire loom in your car)
or crimping facilities
a meter of wire
- 83BG-13N004-CA - £9.54
LED's or an LED/Resistor combination in place of the bulbs.
can get the bulb holders from Ford but I bet they will cost you
a fortune and probably wonít have the cables connected so the best
thing to do it get the holders and a modest amount of cable from
a scrapped Mondeo. I would suggest disconnecting the battery for
this project - but its your call.
for reference is what the bulb holders look like, they are inserted
into back box of the door handle. Most dealers will tell you that
they can't be ordered seperatly and you'll have to buy the entire
door loom - use the FINIS code above to annoy them!
MK1 mondeoís came with door handle surrounds that had the light
window and the space for the holder so its ready for the holder
and light, You need to check if you have a MK2 or 3 that the surround
has a window in it. Look up at the Ďceilingí of the surround for
a small window. The flash light has made this look a lot clearer
then it is and in reality its quite a bit darker.
up you need to remove the interior door trim see this How-To for
instructions : Door
down you need to peel back the insulation foam slowly to stop it
ripping and it helps to use a hairdryer to warm the glue and then
a stanley knife to slice through it. You only have to peel it back
above the door handle and be careful not to cut any wires when you
slice the glue. Now you should be able to see if the wiring is in
place, its two wires - one orange and one black that'll go to the
plastic surround of the door release. If its there on the front
doors you are damn lucky and you *should* have the other 3 in place.
is looking down on the door and you can see the wires running into
the holder. My car didnít have the wiring there so the colours are
not the normal wiring. Orange and black is the normal wiring!! If
its there then withdraw the holder from the surround and plug the
bulbs into the sockets. The bulbs are a small push fit style, which
is typically used to light the instrument panel, they are not W5W
bulbs!! Turn the lights on to check they work and reassemble the
panel. Go grab a beer and chill in the knowledge that those who
don't are still reading the how-to! (Unless of course you want to
fit coloured LEDís in which case read onÖ)
for the rest of us you have to wire the lights yourselves. Its very
easy to do and you have a choice of how you want to do it - with
LED's or as stock. If you want the stock style you need to obtain
the bulb holders before you cut any wires! Get them from a scrapped
car and that way you'll have the wires already attached to the holders.
The LED route you need to wire yourself up an LED and resistor combination
and then make another 3 for the other doors! Typical resistance
value is 340? (orange-yellow-brown) If you are not happy with electronics
then I suggest you buy 12volt LEDís Ė these have the resistor already
in the housing and are more strait forward.
to wire the front you need to splice into the supply for the electric
window switch illumination. Look at the connector and you should
be able to easily find a black wire. Since the drivers side switch
controls all 4 windows the wire is quite thick! This is the negative
for the windows and you should slice into that one and connect the
negative from the LED or the black wire from the holder to this
wire. Solder the joint and insulate it using the tape.
is the connector for the passenger window, under the tape is the
connections that I did, you can just see the orange wire with a
blue streak (Pin1) which is the illumination positive supply. You
can check this with a volt meter by pushing the probes into the
front of the connector, the meter should register 12v when the lights
are switched on regardless of ignition.
Splice into that wire and connect the positive of the LED or the
corresponding wire from your holder to this. Solder the join and
tape up with insulating tape to prevent short circuits. If you have
the bulb holder insert it into the holder on the door release surround
and check it lights when you turn on the headlights.
you have gone the LED route you may need to remove the small plastic
window in this surround to enable enough light to pass. You can
see the LED poking through the hole above. Since the LED wonít have
the holder make sure the legs are insulated and its either glued
or taped into position.
Check all connections are secure and insulated, then check that
the LED/bulb works with the lights on. If they do re-connect the
window switch and check the window switch still lights up! Reassemble
the door panel and you only have another 3 doors to do!!!
my LX model had no front wiring in place but the rear wiring was
there, if you donít have the rear wiring and you also donít have
electric windows then question if you really need to light up the
back! If you really do want to you are going to need to pass the
lighting feed into the door by removing the interior pillar trim
and its NOT a fun job!!
it should end up looking something like this, remember this is taken
during the day but it still gives off a soft diffused light around