Cost / Time Requirements
Prices: £20 > £40
Prices: £500 > £650
Wired: 10 to 20 Minutes
Wiring: 2 to 3 Hours
A Manual Sunroof To an Electric Equivalent
was another standard feature on the higher spec-cars and can be
easily added. Time taken depends on what wiring loom your car came
with, it you have the wiring in place then it's about a 20 minute
job else you will be looking at 2 to 3 hours for completion.
- 93BG-A53508-AC - £544.62
- 93BB-F045B54 Pumice (Cream) £17.63
- 95BB-F045B54 Opal (Grey) £17.63
or Window Switch
93BG-15B679-AA - £39.90
(Needs some small modifications): 93BG-14529-AA - £26.04
screwdriver (star style)
meters of suitable wire (use the blue/violet cable on the motor
OR crimping facilities
the parts from a scrap-yard as buying new will cost you a fortune!
I paid £25 all in from my local scrap-yard. The motor assembly incorporates
a timing circuit so the motor cuts out when the sunroof reaches
its furthest back position. For this reason you must only take the
motor from a Mondeo and not from an escort/Granada etc. Mondeo Ghia's
had the electric sunroof as standard and all other models had it
available as an optional extra. I would suggest disconnecting the
battery for this project - but it's your call.
is the cowl with switch and right is the motor assembly - Note itís
a completely contained unit.
Right to start with you need to prise out the front courtesy light
and disconnect it.
A note here that if you have upgraded to the map reading lights
from a Granada or Scorpio they will NOT fit back after this conversion,
however the Mondeo's own basic or Ghia (Map lights) will still fit!
next up is to remove the existing handle, (Make sure the sunroof
is in its normal closed position) open the handle as if you were
about to move the roof and you will see a small Thorx screw that
holds the handle to the roof. Unscrew this one (it will be very
tight) and remove the handle from the roof. Now in the hole the
light sits in you will find two small black screws that hold the
front of the cowl in place, remove these and slide the cowl backwards
towards the rear windscreen. Itís held on two clips and should slide
off without much force.
You should now have something that resembles the above right picture,
you can see the scratches on the black paint in the top right where
the spring clips hold the cowl in place and also the three bolt
holes where you will secure the new motor. Right now apply a little
grease to the spindle and also to the motor and offer the unit up,
try and get it square to all three bolts and it should fit directly
onto the spindle. Tighten the three bolts so they are REASONABLY
tight, donít over tighten as you will create more resistance for
the motor to overcome and so slow the operation of the roof. Attach
the relay to the little metal plate thatís on the roof using the
clip on the relay.
is what it looks like with the unit in place (I've put the Red/Black
power cable that I used on the left for comparison)
Now if you have the wiring in place you only need to connect the
bottom connector to it, plus the switch onto the orange/black connector
and refit the new cowl. Job doneÖ. Else:
are only two cables that need connecting into the existing wiring
and these are the BLACK (-) and BLUE/VIOLET (+) cables that you
can see going to the bottom plug in the above picture.
The power cable you choose is quite important as it has to be able
to take the current drawn by the motor. I used concert amplifier
cable, which cost 60pence a meter. Take one end of your power cable
and remove the sheath from the end, cut the little black plug off
the + and - cables coming from the motor and crimp or solder the
ends of your power cable to these. Attach the switch to the wiring
but donít replace the cowl yet.
Pick how you want to light the sunroofs light switch before doing
the rest of the install:
- LIGHTING THE SWITCH:
Now the cheapskates at ford decided not to light the sunroofís switch
be default. However it can be easily done, but you will need a window
switch and not the sunroofís switch (is dosn'tít have the LEDís
Option 1 - No light. (Install first)
If you are happy to live without the light then simply use the normal
switch and refit the cowl when done.
Option 2 - Ignition fed light. (Install first)
This is how I wired my own switch and basically means that the switch
is lit whenever you have the ignition turned to position 2. Itís
done very easily by adding two small wires, from pins 1 to 2 and
3 to 5.
Place the switch connector horizontally and look at the wire side
of it, start in the bottom left (the wire thatís missing and then
number each wire anti-clockwise like so:
Add a wire from pin one (empty) to pin two (Thick Black) and then
from pin 3 (Thick Violet/Blue) to pin 5 (Empty). Ensure they are
secure and touching the switch. Test the switch illuminates by turning
on the ignition.
Option 3 - Light comes on with lights (Do this first)
In order to have the switch light with rest of the lighting circuit
you need to first connect a wire from pins 1 and 2 as above but
pin 5 needs to be taken down into the foot well with your power
cable, run it down as you do the install and connect it to a positive
feed from the interior illumination circuit. (If you go down the
centre pillar you wonít have to take it to the foot well as you
can connect it to the orange/blue wire that feeds the rear door
now youíve decided you need to get your power cable to the fuse
box in the passengers foot well, There are two routes down, windscreen
pillar of centre pillar Ė I went down the windscreen pillar but
on retrospect I would have gone down the centre pillar as removal
and refitting of the windscreen pillarís trim is a nightmare! The
centre pillarís trim is held to the car by clips only and will come
away with a little effort (start at the bottom). The windscreen
pillar comes off from the top fist and then slides up, this is the
easy bit -I broke the retaining clips trying to put it back in the
end Ė hence why I suggest the centre pillar.
Poke the wire behind the head liner until it arrives where you want
it, be patient as this can take time. Removing the passengerís roof
handle helps (Prise the rectangular bits up and there are two screws
behind) Inspect the cable as it arrives to make sure it hasnít been
damaged passing through.
I did two cars on the same day I have photos of both routes so you
can get a feel for how it should look. (The white stickers on the
cable simply say "Sunroof Power Feed" so that anyone working
on the electrics later knows what the cable is!) Route the cable
in the spare cable holder if you go down the windscreen "A"
pillar or tuck it neatly into the channel if you go down the centre
pillar, but either way you need to end up in the passengers foot
Next you need to access the fuse box so open the glove box as far
as it will go and then give it a sharp tug towards the seat. Its
hinges have a release mechanism that allow you to remove the glove
box completely and the greatly improves access to the fuse box.
With the glove box out of the way get your head in the well and
look directly up, you should see a foam pad and to the right (looking
up) is the fuse box. You should also see a small black knob which
when you pull it will allow the fuse box to drop down, its hinged
the same way as the glove box so give it a big tug towards the back
of the car and itíll come away and allow you better access.
Put the fuse box so the hinges are at the back and the fuses and
relays are pointing upwards (IE the way it came out). You will see
a bank of fuses at the south end of the box, relays to west side
and two long connectors on the east. You are only interested in
the first connector block (IE the one furthest east). Go to the
north most point of this connector and look at the wires going in.
There should be a green wire, a thick yellow/orange wire and a thick
violet/blue wire. (Depending on your carís spec level there may
be a forth wire in this connector)
you have located it, withdraw the multi-plug that itís on by depressing
the clip and pulling it out.
With the multi-plug out turn on the ignition, you shouldnít have
any output to the cigarette lighter and your electric windows shouldnít
function. If they do then this is not the right plug. If they donít
then its safe to carry on:
Now you need to cut this wire (remove some of the black cable retaining
tape to help) so you have enough room to work with at both ends.
You need to connect the POSITIVE WIRE of your power cable to this
wire. (IE the one you connected to violet/blue at the sunroof end).
Crimp or solder (be careful soldering near the box) the joint so
the feed out of the fuse box powers both the existing wire and your
new wire ( Y connection). Insulate the connection and replace the
The negative wire of your power cable needs to go to ground. The
closest ground point to the fuse box is behind the lower door trim.
is the location, just below the bottom right (looking out) of the
passengers door behind the trim and under the carpet. Now you could
splice one on the existing grounds or solder onto the bolt BUT if
you want to do this professionally you need to get an O or P crimp
connector (like the ones already connected) so you can withdraw
the bolt and add your connection like the other two.
Right testing time; make sure all the connections you have done
are secure, nothing is shorting or could short the fuse box and
that your power cable isnít damaged in any way. Turn on the ignition
and wait for a few seconds, first check that both your front windows
work and then, if fitted, the rears. Then test that the sunroof
opens and closes with the switch. If everything is fine then turn
off the ignition and begin refitting the trim from the fuse box
back taking care not to trap the new power cable. Remember that
the switch fits on AFTER the cowl is back in place so you need to
make sure you poke the connector through the switch hole then fit
the cowl by sliding in back on and the refitting the two screws,
push the switch up into the cowl and reattach the courtesy light.
It will be necessary to enlarge the little "key" in the
cowl if you have used a window switch - I used a soldering iron
to melt the plastic.
here we have the finished product, unfortunately since I got my
map lights from a Granada and not a Mondeo so they donít fit with
the sunroofs relay in the way and so had to be discarded. If you
still have the grease handy, put the sunroof as far back as it will
go and grease up the mechanism from outside the car as this will
help the roof to move freely and at one speed. Well thatís your
job done and should only have taken about 2 hours.
you may encounter at the end:
No window power AND no roof power:
This will be caused by your connection at the fuse box as the
wire you cut supplyís the windowís. So check the connection is secure
and that you replaced the multi-plug correctly.
No roof power:
Check the fuse box connection to make sure both supplyís (existing
and new) are both being fed. Check the connection at the sunroof
end, and then check your ground point. Ensure + is going to + and
that you havenít mixed the wires up. Check the motor is functioning.
Slow or intermittent roof:
Check the ground point and then the fuse box connection. Make sure
you havenít over tightened the sunroof retaining bolts.