Estimated
Cost / Time Requirements
|
Cost
Range: |
Scrapyard
Prices: £20 > £60 |
Ford
Prices: £212 > £500 |
Time
Range: |
Pre
Wired: 10 to 20 Minutes |
Manual
Wiring: 3 to 4 Hours |
Replacing
Manual Mirrors for Electrically Adjusted Ones
This
is another one of those modifications that upgrades a part of your
car to a higher specification level. GLX and above models had the
electric mirrors as standard and they are also heated when you put
the rear heated screen on. Some
cars will already have parts of the wiring in place, there are three
loom's in the car which you might have -
- Dash
Loom - Wiring behind switch blanking panel
- Floor
Loom - Wiring from connector block in drivers footwell to door
connectors
- Door
Looms - Wiring in the doors and a connector behind the manual
mirror panel.
If
you have one of those then don't assume you have any others without
checking!!
This
modification requires quite a lot of connections to be made and
can be a little tricky to complete in some areas. Set aside 4 hours
for the project although you should be able to complete it under
3.
You need:
- Mirror
Control Switch (Preferably with connection block)
- FINIS
- 93BG-17B676-BA - £37.35
- Two
Electric/Heated mirrors (Preferably with connector block)
- A
large amount of cabling
- Wire
Cutters
- Thorx
Screwdrivers
You
may need:
- Connectors
for the control switch and both mirrors.
Alternatively:
- No
alternatives detailed.
First
up is to prepare the areas, you need to remove both front door cards
and swap your old manual mirrors for the new electric ones. Once
the door card has been removed you need to slacked the 3 retaining
thorx screws then hold the mirror whilst you remove them. Replace
with the new mirror and tighten up. The foam will stop the mirror
from being pushed flush but as you do up the screws it will pull
it back into line.
With
that done you need to prise out the cap that covers the mirror control
switch.

On
some models you may find the wiring connector already behind this
plug, if this is the case you may also have the wiring in the door.
Check with a continuity tester to see, else you may have the wiring
up until the door connector in the A pillar - The easiest way around
this is to replace the door loom from a scrapped mondeo that had
electric mirrors. (Ensure you get a 2 or 4 window control loom for
the drivers side as they are different)
If
you don't have the wiring connector then fear not. Because of the
number of wires involved what you need to do is make a loom rather
then have lots of wires not grouped.

Use
different coloured cables for all the wires so you don't confuse
them and over estimate all the lengths. You'll need to run three
wires (Mirror Supply, Ground, De-Ice supply) from the fusebox up
to the switches location where two will terminate. The other one
will break into two and has to the go to both doors. Effectively
doing a T joint (This is the power feed for the heating elements
and so doesn't actually go into the control switch)
You'll
then need to run five wires to each mirror, wrap your wires in insulation
tape so it resembles a large T. with the switch being the top of
the centre bar We need to connect that now and then we can thread
the loom back into the car.


Start
by connecting the two wires from your power feed. into the switch.
Pin 4 (Black) is the ground and Pin 6 (Orange/Yellow) is the supply.
With these two connected make the Y joint for the defrosting power
line and insulate with tape. You now need to connect the other ten
wires as shown above so that a total of 5 wires go to each mirror.
-
De-Ice
Supply
-
Ground
for De-Ice Supply
-
Mirror
up/down control
-
Mirror
left/right control
-
Mirror
control ground
Two
points to note here, 1) That you can't ground the de-ice supply
back to the mirror control ground, take a wire back to the switch
and connect before the ground enters the switch (As shown above)
and 2) The Mirror control ground is spliced from the same terminal
on the switch (Yellow/Red wire from pin 3)

With
all the wires connected at the switch.wrap the loom in insulation
tape and slowly feed the loom back into the car.with the relevant
spurs going to their section. Next up is to connect the loom at
the mirror ends.

Once
the mirrors are connected back to your loom the only thing left
to do is provide power for the control and de-icers and connect
the ground supply
.
Start
with the ground wire, this needs to be taken to a suitable ground
point, the closest to the fusebox is down by the passengers front
door, under the scuff plate. Its the same one used when we did the
sunroof ground connection. Unbolt the bolt and using an O crimp
connector, slide it over the bolt and retighten.
Next
up will be to connect your mirror control supply, remove the glovebox
and lower the fusebox by pulling the black plug (see previous how-to's
for further instructions). Looking from the front of the fuse box
you'll see two rows of fuses, with relays running up the side, there
are then two long connectors broken into sections. We want the furthest
right connector and the second one up from the fuses. You should
really disconnect the battery when making the connectors for safety
reasons, if not however ensure that the ignition is OFF and that
the mirror's control is also set to OFF.


Reconnect
the battery if you disconnected it, ensure that Fuses F19 (De-Ice
supply) and F34 (Control Supply) are both in and in-tact. Check
all connections are secure, taped and fully insulated. Turn on the
ignition and test both mirrors work in all directions and that they
are warm to the touch approximately 2 minutes after the REAR heated
screen has been turned on.
A
final note that the mirror control is a permanent live, you can
adjust them with or without the key in the ignition.
|