Cost / Time Requirements
Prices: £0 > £5
Prices: £5 > £10
Wired: 2 to 5 Minutes
Wiring: 20 to 30 Minutes
Front Footwell Lights
another feature of the higher spec cars which can be easily added.
Time for this one will, again, depend on what wiring loom you have
in the car. Ford decided to put the holders in some cars and simply
miss out the bulbs, therefore if you are lucky, it's as simple as
putting two W5W Capless bulbs in the holders. For the rest of us,
you will need to obtain the holders and then wire them yourself.
This how-to enables you to install footwell lights that come on
when the door is opened and then remain on for the duration of the
You will need:
5W Capless Bulbs
- 81AG-13465-AA - £1.72
may need: (Depending on wiring loom installed)
cutters / strippers
2 meters worth of suitable cable
off you need to examine the footwells to see if you actually have
the bulb holders installed. The easiest way to do this is to check
the passenger footwell. Kneel down outside the car and put your head
in the footwell. Look up at the underside of the glovebox and you
should see the fusebox and a square piece of foam covering the rest.
In the lower left corner (Looking up) next to the center console you'll
see a square cut-out in the foam and there will be a square, plastic
place where the bulb holder sits.
High-Bright 12v LED's instead of the bulbs
photo should give you a good indication of where the holder is.
Its taken looking out of the passengers footwell - the light you
can see at the bottom is the front courtesy light and the plastic
panel is the bottom of the glovebox. If there is a white bulb holder
with wires on it in place then all you need to do is add the bulbs
and you're done.
If not you will need to wire it yourself, which isn't that tricky.
The first thing to do is obtain the holders which are not normally
available from Ford as they will only want to sell you the entire
loom. You can take them from a scrapped mondeo and they are also
used by Ford to hold the glove box bulb in most of the models (fiesta,
escort etc) so you can take them from here.
Prepare to start the job by locating the plastic holders in both
the drivers and passenger footwell and removing the foam pad in
the passengers footwell (Its held up with 4 plastic clips that you
pull hard on to release)
Now to start with first attach the supply wires of the one holder
to your new power cable and crimp or solder the joint.
insulate with tape to avoid shorting and install the holder in the
drivers side foot well. With this done you need to thread your power
cable behind the console (there are several routes so take your
time) so it arrives in the passenger footwell.
Put the passengers bulb holder in place and then cut the supply
wire so you have enough to go from the drivers lamp to the passengers
with a little spare.
Now measure and cut yourself another piece of cable to go from the
passenger footwell to the fusebox with a little spare.
You now have to make a join in which all three cables come together
- that is, the power feed from the drivers lamp, the power feed
from the passenger lamp and the power feed that will be from the
final part is to connect the power feed to the fusebox. It helps
to remove the glovebox to do this - open it as far as it will go
and then give it a sharp tug towards the rear of the car. Both hinges
have a detaching mechanism and will allow you to put the glovebox
to one side. Look up at the fusebox and you'll see a black pull
handle (looks like the end of a plastic drawing pin). Pull down
on this to release the fusebox and then tug it (just like the glovebox)
out of its hinges for easier working. On the underside of the box
you'll find three push in connectors and you need to find the black/blue
and the Orange/Blue wires that feed the courtesy light.
is looking up at the fusebox in position, the black square with
the holes in it is the central timer module (where the ding-ding
noise comes from) the plug you need is directly behind this so check
you have the right connections by inserting the positive probe of
a volt meter into the orange/blue wire and the negative into the
black/blue wire. Open a door and your meter should read around the
12V mark - close the door and after 12 seconds the meter should
go back to reading 0v. If this doesn't happen then you have the
wrong wires so try again. You can also check by removing the plug
(it comes out by depressing the clip) and then opening a door -
you shouldn't get any interior lights (but the relay will still
if you are working with a door open, remove fuse 34 (Its got an
orange surround on most of the car's I've seen) - this is the fuse
for interior lighting and clock, and pulling it will turn off the
interior lights so you can connect up without fear of shorting anything.
You now need to cut the orange/blue cable and crimp it onto the
positive supply for your door lights and then spice the black/blue
cable onto the negative supply. You can solder this connection but
it can be risky around the fuse box and don't just tape the wires
together as there is a possibility of them coming loose and shorting
against something in the fuse box.
With this done close all the doors and wait for the relay to turn
off (You'll hear a click) - reinsert the fuse and check everything
is ok. Now open any door and the footwell lights and courtesy lights
should come on.
the fusebox making sure not to trap and cables, and then the foam
panel with its clips. Again make sure everything is working and
that all the lights go off with the timer. You should end up with
something like the picture here.
I didn't like the way the light was neatly shaped around the the
passengers footwell yet the drivers side was just allowed to shine
wherever it wanted. What you can do here is to get another passenger
piece of foam from a scrapped mondy and cable tie it to locations
in the drivers footwell. You will need to cut it to allow clearance
of the pedals and steering wheel - remember that safety comes well
above aesthetics so don't attach it to any moving part!